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SVO Digest 06-05-97



PLEASE put "SVO List" on the  subject line of all messages destined for the
list.

I started a Camshaft list too.  :)  If you wanna get it, just ask.  

To post to THAT one, put "CAMLIST"  in the subject line.

Dave
DCompton@JNPCS.COM
Northern VA, USA
CARLISLE: because we should be more to each other than just names...
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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:16:55 -0700
To: "SVO List" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Jim Dvorak <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
Subject: SVO List -- Clutches & Misc. SVO Info.
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SVO Guys,

My $.02 about clutches... 

There's about 5 of us who just did the Centerforce II pressure plate and
the Motorsport disc with the rest standard Ford parts (T-Out bearing, Pilot
Bearing, Rear Main Seal, Short Cable, & Retaining Clips). Might as well do
all of this while it's out--and change the trans fluid as well. Joe Morgan
also reminded us of the cable problem...I've been stranded once for the
cable, and twice for the clips -- I keep spares with me now!

The logic behind the Centerforce II pressure plate is that it's easier on
the leg than the stock unit, while having more clamping power. But the
Centerforce disc -- as it is designed to really grab -- doesn't wear as
well as the Motorsport disc...hence our decision to try this formula for a
"mid-way" point. Our decision was also based on the input from Steve Davis
at Essential Turbo Systems, who actually has his own discs made -- for this
reason -- but he was out of stock at the time we did our clutches.

One guy with an '84 SVO (the rest of us had '86s), upgraded to the
Saleen/Hurst T-5 Quick Ratio shifter (similar to stock SVO) with the Saleen
Aluminum shifter bushings, and the rest of us had Saleen install just the
bushings...A marked improvement in the stick! Short, sure, accurate. 

So far so good on the Centerforce setup.

For those of you who want to go stock...Jim Dingell at Performance Parts
Inc. has the following parts for sale as of yesterday...one set only!

M-7563-A221 Pressure Plate and M-7550-A221 Disc for sale at $124.99 plus UPS.

Email: 
	"Jim Dingell at Performance Parts, Inc." <ppi@POSH.INTERNEXT.COM>

or call:

	 (703) 742-6207

Tell him Jim Dvorak sent you!

By the way, Jim Dingell also has those hard-to-find underhood engine decals
-- all sorts of them. And depending upon which ones, they're either NOS or
reproductions -- I've seen them and they're excellent! He's also a good
source for headlights and turn/marker lights.



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From: "Dave Compton" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
To: "flip" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
Subject: svo list- Carlisle
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 13:02:19 -0400
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Just thought I'd mention I'll be at Carlisle this weekend.  I will be
checking the E-Mail, throughout the weekend, and maybe sending reports if
anything cool and timely needs to be reported.
I unfortunately, will not be taking the SVO.  I'll be over with the Merkur
crowd.  I'll stop by and see the SVO guys, so if you see me, say HI!!!

Dave
DCompton@JNPCS.COM
Northern VA, USA
CARLISLE: because we should be more to each other than just
names...Return-Path: <SVO85HALF@aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 11:07:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: SVO85HALF@aol.com
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To: DCompton@jnpcs.com
Subject: Re: SVO Digest 06-04-97

To Mike Ray,
I'm responding to your question as a test to how this posting works and also
ask if there is a planned meeting at Carlise?
The fuel pump relay is the GREEN relay under the drivers seat.  You can check
for
power in power out.  If it's not HOT-look at the inertia switch.  You can
short that
to check again.

Carlise.  I'm leaving Arizona Friday so I won't be able to read a reply BUT
I'll be there Sat. and assume we only have eyes for SVO's so anyone going
will
"stand out in the croud"  I'LL TRY TO.   LOOK FOR ME.
Mark
SVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@
aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.comSVO85HALF@aol.cReturn-Path:
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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 07:57:15 -0600
From: Carl Morris <morrisc@icemail.ib.stortek.com>
Organization: Storage Technology Corporation
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To: Fordnatics Post <fordnatics@lists.best.com>, SVO List <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
Cc: "Harris, Oliver" <OliverH750@aol.com>
Subject: Last night at Bandimere
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Everyone,
        Had a great night at the strip last night.  It
wasn't too crowded (unusual at Bandimere in Denver), and
it was my first time to get there right when it opened
(rather than leave work at 5 and start racing at 6).
As a result I got more runs in the first hour or so than
I normally get all night.  I got 15 runs total, and could
have gotten more, but I had figured out all I needed as
far as launching went, so I quit running for a while and
ate and watched some other people run.
        You'll recall that I've had a lot of trouble
launching my 85 SVO with street tires and an aluminum
flywheel.  It's been a binary spin-or-bog thing with no
happy medium.  I've tried launching at a steady, high RPM,
which usually results in spin and THEN bog.  I had more
success pumping the gas pedal quickly to maintain a steady
mid-high RPM, but it wasn't consistent, and was impossible
to cut a decent light while pumping the gas.  Anyway, I
found something that works.  I decided to try holding a
steady, fairly low RPM, and then flooring it at the first
yellow, and then dropping the clutch at the appropriate
moment.  I tried starting at idle, but it wasn't enough
and I bogged.  I tried it at 2000 RPM and it was perfect.
I experimented a little above and below, but 2000 always
came out with the best 60' times.  It also allowed me to
watch the tree instead of the tach, so I was able to run
some consistent 0.5xx lights (anywhere within a tenth is
consistent for me ;-)).  I did get one 0.509!
        The evening was very warm and humid by Colorado
standards, so I was down a couple of MPH the whole night
compared to previous evenings there, but I still managed
to beat my best ever by nearly a whole tenth, thanks to the
new launch technique.  I got a 2.164 60' (previously 2.3 was
very good for me) on Dunlop D60 all seasons, and a 15.131 et.
I'm excited to get the Engle cam in...

On a side note, there was a guy there with a very nice Pantera
and a SVO 351C.  Supposedly he had run mid 13s with his old
hotrodded motor, and he was hoping to do as well with his new
slightly milder motor.  He was trying to tune his Haltech 
between runs, and it was basically a disaster.  He didn't run
any faster than me the whole night, and wasn't happy about it.
Looking at it, I can now see why you guys would recommend
buying a Pantera rather than a Corvette.  It was VERY nice.
-- 
Carl_Morris@StorTek.ComReturn-Path: <james@reese.org>
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Date: Tue, 03 Jun 1997 03:01:09 -0700
To: "Dave Compton" <DCompton@jnpcs.com>
From: James Reese <james@reese.org>
Subject: SVO List
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Well,

With all the clutch discussions going on, I certainly picked a good time to
replace mine. I've done this once before on my 84, about 8 years ago, now
I'm doing it on a recently acquired 86.  Here's the scoop. The car had a
Centerforce Red Pressure Plate, with a Ford OEM clutch. The cable was
modified by clamping a threaded rod to the end of the cable (under the car,
still with the ball) in an effort to pick up about 1 1/2 inches of length.
I'm trying to set the linkage back to stock.  I'm running a new Centerforce
Gold (the original) Pressure Plate, with CF clutch & t/o bearing. 

Here are the questions:

1. Assuming the cable is the stock one, should it work alright with the
Centerforce? (If so, why did the prev. owner modify it?)

2. How do I get the extra length I think I need?

3. I've seen people on this list mention adjusting the cable under the car.
 I thought you adjusted the cable by lifting up on the clutch pedal, then
slowly depressing, listening for the "clunk".

4. I've seen people on this list also mention the "short cable". What's this?

5. I've got to order multiple numbers of most of the little clips & such I
need (50 @ .77, 10 @ 1.06, etc.,) Does anybody know if/where I can get
these in qty's of one? (#'s, 35238-S100(NN-127-B), D5FZ-2861-A,
E662258-S(AQ-100-E))

I'm also the one who was having the cold-full boost, warm-9psi boost
problem, that I think is trubo related, I'm putting one off an 84 on, we'll
see if that fixes it.  Should run great with the spearco IC & a little bit
more boost (say 18 psi?)

Thanks in advance, and my apologies for making this post so long.


James Reese
james@reese.org

http://reese.org/james/index.htm
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From: YamahaRdr@aol.com
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To: DCompton@jnpcs.com
Subject: Re: SVO Digest 06-03-97

What is the reason for the statement "NO PLATNUM PLUGS IN TURBO CARS" for?
 What do they do to the motor?  I guess the NGK's I put in about 2 months ago
need to go?

thanks for the help

Steve

86 SVOReturn-Path: <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 16:09:22 -0700
To: "SVO List" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Jim Dvorak <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
Subject: SVO List -- Head for Sale
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Okay...I've be wavering around as to what to do for a head...now it seems
I've decided to let Nick do his magic work on a head for me, but I don't
want to pay freight to New Jersey (I'm in California) to send him my core. 

So this good head I bought a couple weeks ago is for sale! It's from a 1987
Turbo Coupe automatic so it has the 9-bolt intake pattern, and can be used
on any 2.3L Turbo motor. The cam is in good shape, but you can use your
good cam. It needs a tank job, and the cam sprocket is a little rusty (it
was from a wrecked car with only 78,000 miles on it), but you can use your
current one, or buy a trick adjustable unit from ETS (which is what I'll
probably do.)

I'd prefer a Southern California sale as this sucker weighs about 75
pounds, but I will negotiate. I paid $260 for it, and I'm willing to let it
go for what I paid for it.

Give me an e-mail for more details or if you're interested.

Thanks!

Jim Dvorak
jdvorak@deltanet.com
'86 SVO -- Shadow Blue
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 15:49:51 -0700
To: "SVO List" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Jim Dvorak <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
Subject: SVO List -- Lumbar Support
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SVO Guys,

Well, I did it! Earlier today I typed-in a long dissertation on the lumbar
support fix. I know all about this as years ago I did this article in an
early version of "The SVO Chronicles" (our
beautiful-but-so-much-trouble-to-produce-so-it-hasn't-been-done-in-too-long
Newsletter). And then I subsequently forgot to save it before I ran off to
lunch!

So here's my brief version...drip some Mothers Preserves protectant (or
other quality brand of thin silicone-based rubber lubricant/dressing)
inside the bulb's valve. Use a rag to not make a mess. Work the valve so as
to "inhale" the liquid. Do so slowly, so it doesn't spray all over. Work it
into the valve, and tip it at different angles.

This "lubrication" needs to be done periodically -- a couple times a year
or when necessary -- to "maintain" softness in the bulb's valve so it seals.

Another cause of loss of pressure is that the thin hose connecting the
bladder to the pump gets stretched-out around the pump's nipple. Tell-tale
signs of this are if you can freely spin the pump from the hose. You can
either trim the end of the hose (which may be necessary if it happens to be
cracked) or clamp it tight with a short (3" or 4") "zip" tie -- use black
-- and tighten it snugly and trim off the excess. I prefer the "zip"
method, as it's more permanent.

Good luck!

Jim Dvorak
'86 SVO Shadow BlueReturn-Path: <cwahlin@worldnet.att.net>
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 16:58:06 -0400
To: "Dave Compton" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Carl Wahlin <cwahlin@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: SVO List
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Platinum plugs? 
This is what I heard....
They get crapy real fast with running a rich. And, you can't clean them off
either.
Also, usualy they get a bit hot for a turbo. Cold plugs are better... I
just ordered some NGK... I'll get em tomorrow. Seems to be some special
plug for the turbo that no one stocks. I'll see how they work.
Carl Wahlin

www.geocities.com/motorcity/6325 <-- home of fast 2.3L Turbo fords.
84 SVO
88 Turbo Coupe

Obeying the speed limit just gets harder and harder... :)Return-Path:
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Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:34:52 -0700
To: Dave Compton <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: James Lawler <james-lawler@ccnsinfo.com>
Subject: Re: Welcome to the SVO Mailing List
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Hi, I'm a new member to the SVO list although I've owned my SVO since 84. I
stopped using it as a daily driver in 1989 and use it now just on weekends.
I take it to track days, autocross events and hillclimbs. I've made a few
changes from stock:

Engine mods:
86 intake manifold
Spearco intercooler
86 turbo
3" exhaust

Other mods:
Springs
Roll cage
Interior removed.

I bought the intercooler right from Spearco. I talked them into giving me a
racer discount of 10% so I paid just under $1000 US for the intercooler
with the optional scoop and the bypass valve. I was not able to find a
better price but to be honest I did not look very hard.

The intercooler made a big difference, I knocked 5 sec off my best time at
the local hillclimb. I was worried about running too lean with the stock
28lb injectors and the higher density charge so I swapped in the bigger
injectors (32 lb/hr?) from an 87 t-bird engine. I get a bit of bog at WOT
transitions until the boost builds but make good power after that. 

I have a full 3" exhaust system including downpipe and cat. I am in the
process of getting a dump pipe made that I can swap in for racing that will
exit just behind the front wheel on the passenger side.

I can't remember the name of the company I purchased the springs from. They
are progressive rate and lower the car about 2". I would like to switch to
fixed rate springs but have not researched it enough yet to know what to
get. Can anyone offer any insight on what worked for them? I'm still using
the stock Koni shocks (gotta love that lifetime warranty) but with stiffer
springs I will probably have to replace them as well.

I am in the efi332 list as well and am in the process of building an engine
management computer to replace the stock system. This will give me lots of
flexibility playing with injector sizes, MAF sensors, and anti lag systems,
hope to have it running this fall/winter. 

Next on the to-do list is:

	Head - cam, larger valves, porting.
	Turbo - don't know what to get, some kind of T4?

I welcome any advice.

	
James Lawler james@ccnsinfo.com

84' Mustang SVO E/SP
90 Eagle Talon AWD E/SP (Rain car)Return-Path: <morgaj01@student.ucr.edu>
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To: Dave Compton <DCompton@jnpcs.com>
Subject: Re: SVO Digest 06-04-97 platinums
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Mike,

...I dunno... maybe...

1) ...because platinum isn't a good conductor of electricity? (durable
-- yes -- conductive -- not really)

2) ...Bosch Platinums are the absolute worst platinum plug available,
with only a sliver of "platinum" that can and does fall out of the
sleeve, contacting the ground electrode and causing a dead miss?

3) ...Ford says not to use them.

4) ...they cause missing and detonation at or near peak torque.
("...broad...heat range" -- or
"universal-keep-costs-down-one-size-fits-all-heat range?")

They're "durable" in a low-performance, low cylinder pressure
environment, but that's it.  They're intended for 3.8 S/C (ever changed
those?) 3.8 Tauruses (those?), 4.0 Aerostars (?), etc., where the plugs
are a total bitch to get to -- or for those losers that think that
changing plugs is the mechanical equivalent of an engine ovehaul  -- and
are willing to pay the price in terms of added costs and the requisite
loss in performance.

At least the Motorcraft and Autolite plugs have a standard conductor
with a little wafer or platinum, instead of a just a cheesy little
sliver.

AWSF-32Cs forever!

Joe MorganReturn-Path: <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 11:42:01 -0700
To: "SVO List" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Jim Dvorak <jdvorak@deltanet.com>
Subject: SVO List -- Fuel Pressure Gauge
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Guys,

When installing a fuel pressure gauge in the passenger compartment, get the
isolator. It allows you to keep the fuel in the engine compartment where it
belongs, and uses coolant to provide pressure to the gauge itself.

Saleen has them, and it's what they use on all their installs. Call them at
1-800-888-8945 or e-mail joe@saleen.com for more information.

Jim Dvorak
'86 SVO Shadow Blue -- Early SVT Cobra