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SVO Digest 07-06-97 The LAST one!

The SVO Mailing list now lives on a real listserver. Hurray!

You probably already have a message welcoming you to the SVO list.

So don't send messages to me anymore.  Send them to;


If you have a problem with the listserver, you can email me, but you can
also use 


I put up a Turbo Coupe list, too.  Hurray!
So if you have a Turbo Coupe and want to be on that list, send mail to:


no subject line, "join turbocoupe" in the message body.

Oh, I have lots of web space now, and that's the next project.  So send
pictures, stories, FAQs, etc.

My web page is at http://www.smartworx.com/dcompton
This will get a lot better in the future.  

Check out the 2.3 Turbo Engine Forum from my home page!

Anybody know where Carl Morris went?


Northern VA, USA
"Boost Scootin' Boogie"Return-Path: <morgaj01@student.ucr.edu>
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Message-ID: <33BF9520.3ADA@student.ucr.edu>
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 1997 13:53:20 +0100
From: Joe Morgan <morgaj01@student.ucr.edu>
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To: Dave Compton <DCompton@jnpcs.com>
CC: Cory Erickson <ericksco@mhd1.moorhead.msus.edu>,
        Jim Gillum <jimmykg@juno.com>,
        Scott Shidel <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>,
        Mike Guard <mike.mk.guard@ae.ge.com>,
        MATTHEW SCHWASS <mattschwass@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: SVO list...racin'...racin'...etc.
References: <19970704182005686.AAI189@lap-dc.dtic.mil>
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One of these days I'm gonna win a final. Always the bridesmaid, never
the bride. 

I went to the "Street Racer's Challenge" at LACR (2800+ elev.)
yesterday.  They have a shootout series that goes all over the country
-- "heads up" 10.5" tire classes classes, domestic and import brackets,

The domestic $$$ class was filled with "back-halfed", lexan-windowed,
big block cars, so I ran in the import class (with lexan-windowed,
gutted Acuras).  What the hell...it was bracket racing anyways.  

Went through 5 rounds and got beat on a double-breakout deal by an
automatic '95 Accord that was dialed at 18.86.

Do you know how far a 7.26 second headstart is in 1320 feet?  A LONG
way.  Anyways...I caught him at about 11-1200 feet and stomped the
brakes hard, but not hard enough.  He ran an 18.81 on his 18.86 and I
ran an 11.41@105 on my 11.60 dial-in. (Oops!)  I usually "bag" a couple
of tenths just in case, cut a decent light, chase people down and
"bumper race" them to the line.  I guess I found the outer limit for
that strategy, eh?

Supposedly, CC, PHR, Turbo and Boost were going to cover the race, so (I
hope) I'll get some coverage.  More coverage -- more cheap/free stuff --
more racing.

Is anybody out there a drag racer?  Am I all alone out here? (insert
echo effects here...) :)

Talk to you all later,
Joe MorganReturn-Path: <CHASK@aol.com>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 1997 10:35:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: CHASK@aol.com
Message-ID: <970706103541_203752680@emout08.mail.aol.com>
To: dcompton@jnpcs.com
Subject: SVO List


What you say about the fuel filter likely causing a uniform fuel starvation
condition is probably true and what you said further that such a condition
would likely be more evident at higher rpms also sounds reasonable to me
though you've probably noticed that there are audible pulsations in the fuel
feed system that sound almost as if there is some kind of electronic pump
control of fuel flow reminiscent of the inline electronic fuel pumps I used
to use on my small block Chevys.  Who knows how some of this newer stuff
responds to demand and rpms.

About the idle air bypass solenoid.  My only experience with that is that it
is unplugged when you set the idle.  Here's an idea.  Maybe you should reset
your idle.  Imagine the adjustment screw which it responds to having been set
too far out or in and the solenoid not knowing how to respond to a limits
sensing problem.  I don't think it works exactly like this but would describe
to you the process by which you set your idle.  Bring the engine up to normal
running temperature.  Turn the engine off.  Unplug the connector that goes to
it.  It is located in a fairly straight line to the  rear of the adjustment
screw on the back side of the intercooler air feed at the rubber compliance
duct.  Getting the connector loose is easy if the engine is cold but on and
off is somewhat dicey when the engine is warm.  The procedure in the manual
requires that the engine be at running temp so the cool vs. hot issue is moot
anyway.  To continue, with the engine off, put a small bladed screwdriver
into the slot on the bottom (unfortunately makes it more difficult) of the
connector and bend the tang such that the claw catch opens (careful- don't
break it).  Fire up the engine and hold the idle at 2000 rpms for 120
seconds.  The engine should idle at what is called the base idle speed of I
think 750 rpms.  If it doesn't then you'll have to turn the adjustment screw
out some and if the engine stops before your able to get this done then I
think it may be necessary to go through the 2 minute 2000 rpm idle routine
again.  If this later complication occurs you'll soon see why this part of
the process is more easily done with a buddy up there keeping it idling and
turning the adjustment screw out such that it will idle.  When you get the
thing to idle at the 750 plus or minus 50 it will be obvious that your at the
point described as base idle regardless of what it is exactly because the
engine's ability to idle at base with the connector loose is like turning on
a light; either it burns or it doesn't.  Once this is done and possibly after
having to do the 2000 rpm thing again, turn the engine off, re-connect the
sensor plug and set the idle speed to 900 plus or minus 50 (what the manual
calls for).

When checking connectors be careful!  They are older and brittler than when
new thus vulnerable to having their clasps break when opened.  Furthermore,
from the stand point of checking them, I would do just that and only that
initially.  That is, check to make sure they are connected but disconnect and
clean the actual contacts only as a last resort and possibly only after
consulting with an expert in the technical nuances of these electronic

Sorry, but I don't know anything about the Merkurs.

Charlie (CHASK@aol.com)Return-Path: <svotim@webtv.net>
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From: svotim@webtv.net (Timothy Smith)
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 1997 15:23:11 -0400
To: DCompton@jnpcs.com (Dave Compton)
Subject: Re: SVO Digest 07-*04*-97
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Hi All
  Well I repositioned (pushed upper hose all the way to the right) &
cleaned the T/C I.C. hoses.
Hope this cures the hose slump prob (stop
laughing dave it`ll happen to you someday
,OH forgot It`s only a myth HA).

While It was all apart I unhooked & pluged the breather tube & swung the
little hose
to the drivers side of eng. & stuck a 5/8
heater hose onto the end so the excess
oil can drain from breather to the ground.

Did I do good ?
Will this prevent some oil form entering
the intake system?

I sell long distance phone service wholesale.