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SVO Digest 06-23-97



We need an SVO FAQ written.  Any volunteers?  

You can even just compile the issues that are common and the common
questions, and I'll write the verbage.  

Dave
DCompton@JNPCS.COM
Northern VA, USA
Woosh!Return-Path: <dcompton@jnpcs.com>
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From: "Dave Compton" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
To: "flip" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
Subject: SVO List -AC
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 14:06:59 -0400
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Got my AC charged, and all 4 O-Rings replaced.  $279.  oooofff.  Freon was
$50 a lb.
BUT, it's 95 outside, and 40 degrees in there!

1)  the Hayden fan keeps all well while running the AC, even WITHOUT having
a direct connection to the  AC Clutch line to turn on the fan.  I'm pretty
lazy sometimes. :)  Seems the extra heat from the condensor, turns the fan
right on.  Alright, compressor pressure junkies, I'll hook it up.  

I HIGHLY recommend the aftermarket for fans and especially controllers. 
The Ford stuff is junk.  I repaired and replaced fans, controllers, wiring,
etc. for quite a while.
AAAK!  PFFTTTT! (Bill the Cat Noises).  
Now, for under $90, my fan action is PERFECT, and QUIET, and the car STAYS
on the low end of the temp gauge.  Fan does not run fulltime, it just works
quickly and effectively.

2)  Boosting down the hiway in my chilled out car, I noticed that the air,
just wasn't blowing as far. 

(can be sung to the tune of the opening line of ZZ Top's "I'm Bad, I'm
Nationwide")

"Cuz, I'm cold, I'm refrigerized"

It seems that under low vacuum, alright, boost,  the air moves up to the
defroster vents :(  Can somebody with an Electrical and Vacuum book, tell
me which check valve is broke, or where the vacuum reservoir is, etc. 
Yeah, Iknow I'm bein lazy, but it's hot out.  I wanna go STRAIGHT to the
problem. 

Obviously, one for the SVO FAQ....

TNKS much!

Dave
DCompton@JNPCS.COM
Northern VA, USA
"Well, why do you *think* they call 'em bumpers?"Return-Path:
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Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 10:44:41 -0700
To: "SVO List" <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
From: Jim Dvorak <jim@mustangsvo.org>
Subject: SVO List -- Spark Plugs
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Mark,

Try the NGK V-Power TR5 -- not sure of the gap off-hand, but check your
vehicle emissions sticker that's underhood.

As for your A/C Compressor not working, you'd better check your fan, fan
power connector, fan relay, and fan relay connector. If you fan burned-up,
it most likely stressed the relay and anything else involved. It could be
caused by low Freon.

Both Dorman and Borg Warner (sorry, I don't have the part numbers handy)
have a replacement Cooling Fan Connector Pigtail. It's a few bucks, and it
replaces the connector at the fan due to damage or corrosion. A visual
inspection should tell you it needs replacing -- you could also run
voltage/ohm tests.

The fan relay and the fan relay connector is a very common problem, you
should check them both (they're above your left knee -- a little black
plastic box with "TRW" on it). Often it's easy enought to tell that all the
connections are melted, so they need replacement. There are replacement
connector "pigtails" and relays available from both Ford and your local
auto parts store through Borg Warner:

BW-PT769 Engine Cooling Fan Module Harness Kit
Repairs the "TRW" cooling fan relay module connector which tends to
overheat and melt, causing failure of the cooling fan operation resulting
in overheating and non-functioning of the air conditioner. Includes all
parts necessary to cover all models.

Replaces Ford:
E4FZ-8C290A (1983-1990)

Includes 1-8 position connector and 1-10 position connector, and 5-4" 12
gauge terminal leads with solderless crimp-on connectors. (Depending on
which year car you have, you'd use either the 8- or 10-position connector.)

List $16.23

Hope this helps!

Jim Dvorak
'86 SVO Shadow BlueReturn-Path: <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>
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From: "Scott Shidel..." <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>
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To: Dave Compton <DCompton@jnpcs.com>
Subject: Re: SVO Digest - Mailing List Guidelines
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On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, Dave Compton wrote:

> 
> DAN, Wake up! the TBird list s*cks!
> 
As does another that starts with M:)

> Reasons that your message might not be sent;
> 
> I personally dislike you, and I have a grudge against you.  (not feeling
> paranoid are you?)
> 
hehehehehehehe.....Don't get like Roland there, Dave:)

I must say this list is pretty awesome!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott
->71 Pinto stonestock 2.3 EFI Turbo T5, 13.67@99 on generic radials
------>89 SHO 15.3@88(or something)..4 sale..wanna buy it?<----------
->86 Escort..not even worth mentioning..but gets me where I gotta
go..sometimes
->86 Merkur XR4Ti....Under construction...will be baaaad though
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Re
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From: "Garcia, Jesus V" <Jesus_Garcia@dscc.dla.mil>
To: 'SVO List' <DCompton@JNPCS.COM>
Subject: SVO List - Intercooler Hoses
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:46:42 -0400
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Just got the IC hoses from the Ford deal in Dayton, Ohio.  Didn't seem 
to be a problem getting them and only paid $ 20.00 (for both), 
compared to the $ 60.00 (for both), I paid for the original hoses a 
few years ago.

E7SZ-6W-650A  OUTLET HOSE
E8SZ-6W-651A  INLET HOSE

BTW the noises/symptoms (noise) I described (earlier email), boy was I 
off ........  took it in my regular Ford dealer and they diagnosed 
u-joints.  I thought they were crazy, considering there was no boost 
and the car wouldn't do over 60.  But change them I did, and the car 
is good as new.  I would have bet the bank they were crazy.  I've had 
u-joints go bad on my 69 Mustang, and they just clucked, didn't feel 
like the whole car was going to fall apart.  (hopefully don' t have to 
worry about this for a while.)

Jesse





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To: DCompton@jnpcs.com
From: rkl@MooseWare.com (Rod Lilak)

|To: DCompton@jnpcs.com
|Subject: Re: SVO Digest 06-20-97

|Once again (sorry) can someone tell me the correct plugs and gap. Also my AC
|compressor doesn't come on. (it's getting nasty in Jersey) What should I
|check? And where is the fuse,I hAd a burnt cooling fan, could this be
|related?Return-Path: <morgaj01@student.ucr.edu>



Motorcraft AWSF-32. I gap 'em at 36 at 6000 Ft, in the PRNJ (denser air) 34
is probably
the trick.

On your A/C, jumper across the pressure sensor on the reciever/drier mounted
on the
left firewall. If pressure is not sufficient to close the switch )all the
sneaky freon has departed for the ozone) there is no juice to the
compressor. If your compressor comes on after the jumper is connected,  you
know you'll need to recharge the system. If not I think there was a fusible
link as well as a 20 amp in the panel - I can check for sure. (have factory
manuals) 

Now, two questions for the audience.

1. Recommendations for a vendor for a replacement twin tailpipe with the
chrome Ford extensions. I want to find one that is of the original stainless
steel, not the 
rust-a-matic kind.

2. Has anyone else had a problem with their rear shock mounts wearing out
where the bottom mount goes through the flange on the axle? I've got a
really annoying rattle
that I haven't been able to isolate to anything else. 

Rod 
----------------------------------------------------------------
Rod Lilak		|  MooseWare Personal Computer Solutions
Voice (719) 685-9174    |  Custom Software for Vertical  Markets
                        |
================================================================
It's not just Software - It's MOOSEWARE !
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From: "Scott Shidel..." <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>
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To: Dave Compton <DCompton@jnpcs.com>
Subject: Re: SVO DIGEST 06-22-97
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Woooooo hoooooo!!!!!!!! 
Thanks for the line lock Joe!! That sucker is BAAAD!
Put the lines in yesterday, the wired it up today..real cool. I have a
toggle switch on the dash and a 1/2" blue(Ford blue dammit:) LED that
indicates it's on.
Took it behind a shopping center after wiring it up, and gave it a
shot...Its so wild to be able to power brake without using the brake..Hit
the revlimiter in 1st in a matter of maybe 2 seconds, then rode the
revlimiter for about 10 seconds in second b4 flipping the switch relaesing
the line loc. The car was bouncing off the revlimiter and left a pair of
225mm wide burnout lines for atleast 80 feet before I had to lift, cuz the
car was getting REAL sideways and i didn't want to hit the building:)
it was awesone though...The whole back of the shopping center was FOGGED,
then the fog blew over the housing projects and got the kids all excited
there..
Can't wait to get to the track with the doggone slicks to see what this
car can really put down! I atleast know the burnout won't be a problem:)
 But I need to replace the other(drivers side) caliper now. I got mucho
air in the sytem when I had to change a 1 foot section of line, and the
bleeder valve was stuck and rounded out.  the lack of branking on the left
side was apparent when I did tyhe burnout and immedialty was on a 45
degree angle pointing to the right.  Boy, I am psyched!!!!! Do or die, my
stock motor is gonna post a 13.0 or hi 12!


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott
->71 Pinto stonestock 2.3 EFI Turbo T5, 13.67@99 on generic radials
------>89 SHO 15.3@88(or something)..4 sale..wanna buy it?<----------
->86 Escort..not even worth mentioning..but gets me where I gotta
go..sometimes
->86 Merkur XR4Ti....Under construction...will be baaaad though
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Re
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Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 16:00:41 +0100
From: Joe Morgan <morgaj01@student.ucr.edu>
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Mike,

Point 1:

Don't mean to sound like a jerk or anything, but you know where I said
"(automatic)" right after I typed "TC"?  That stands for an "automatic
transmission".  Did you have an automatic transmission in your TC?  if
you didn't, then it wouldn't apply to yours would it?  Since it seems
that you are unsure whether you have an auto or a manual, I'll make it
simple for you...

If it has one pipe in the back, it's an automatic -- if it has two, it's
a stick.  If you're feeling really energetic, open the door and count
the pedals -- if you have two it's an auto, three means it's a stick.

I hope I've cleared this up -- once and for all ;)

Point 2:

I was replying to Dave about an installing an 87-88 box in an XR4Ti that
has a C3 transmission -- that's what _I_ was talking about.  What are
_you_  talking about?  The C3 is in no way connected to the computer, so
you must be talking about something entirely unrelated to our
conversation.
 
Point 3:

The 85.5-86 SVOs (PE) had a 6500 rev-limit and all the rest had a 6200
rev-limit.  You need a new tach.  I'm selling my Autometer Pro-Comp
(10,000 RPM model) if anybody is interested.

I'll check the EGR restrictionss tomorrow and I'll let you know, but the
rest of it is the same as I told Dave the first time.  Lucky thing this
insn't on the Merkur list, Roland would kick you off for sending a "me
too" message.

Later...joe

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