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Re: attemp 2 SVO
>OK, This is a three parter, dissect at will.
>1....Well, I fought the law and the law won. FoMoCo parts system 1, Mike
>0. I'm still trying to get the solenoid / coil cover for my car. I
>pulled the stamping no. off of the SVOOA site (p/n E6ZB-14A088-AA). The
>Folks at Green Ford sales can't find proof of it even exsisting. The
>local dealer somehow crossed to to E5ZZ-14A088A. This was the part I
>ordered from MN. I got it yesterday. It's the Cowl cable trough on the
>firewall (not too bad, mine was cracked :-)) not the cover. I've blown
>$8 in much worse ways.
Mine was fine until the last time I had it into Ford, when the car stopped
I had to have it towed, and home was not an option. Some oaf of a mechanic
ripped and cracked it rather than remove the bolts. Grrrrrrr.
>What I need form one of you kind folks, is to verify what p/n is stamped
>into your cover. Please let me know so that I can start with a good
>2.... I've been loosing coolant. I crawled under and found a puddle in
>the right side lower control arm. It appears to be dripping from a small
>hose coming through a grommet in the firewall. It looks like a drainage
>hose. Nothing in the engine compartment is leaking. And it doesn't leak
>all the time. Is this a drain hole for the heater core / AC? It's
>located about 10 inches below the core in/outlet location on the
>firewall. AC hasn't worked in years, think my core is shot?
Yikes. Sounds like your heater core turned loose. Mine was leaking there, too
when it went a few years ago. You're not going to like the repair on this one:
A new 'Lifetime' core costs less than $30 most places - but be expected to
spend an entire weekend replacing it. Mustangs w/o air are simple, as you
only need remove the glove box lid and an access plate, and slide the core
out. But A/C equipped means removing the entire heater/condenser assembly
which requires removal of most of the dash. Here is the drill:
You'll need an 8mm & 10mm sockets and some flex extensions.
Disconnect the battery because you are going to be putzing with some
inside the dash.
Remove the dash pad - Phillips screws in the defroster area and under the
Remove the facing part of the instrument panel - phillips screws under the
dash pad area.
Remove the center console. It has to come out in order to allow the dash to
forward enough to get the heater box out. You'll need to disconnect the
harnesses to the fog light & boost switches.
Remove the instrument cluster, unplug it and disconnect the speedo cable &
gauge hose. Now might be a good time to replace/check all your instrument
There are 2 10mm bolts on each side of the dash to remove.
The radio/shake brace in the middle must be removed - 3 bolts.
There are 3 8mm bolts near the windshield, and 3 more underneath the dash
that hold it to the metal framework- remove them - this is where you need
Now you must break the seal on the A/C lines to the evaporator core. The
Ozone gods will now curse you. If you work quickly, and seal the hoses with
plugs or tape you probably won't have to replace the receiver/drier
cannister unless you are in a really humid climate.
Disconnect & drain the hoses for the heater core. If you want to replace the
rubber part of the hoses near the firewall, be aware that these are not
available from Ford, and the std. replacements from most auto parts places
have the wrong bend - better you should take the old hoses in and look for a
Now - with the dash pulled forward as far as possible into the passenger
compartment - there are 2 bolts on the firewall, and one underneath the dash
that is damn hard to get to. With these out, you can remove the whole
evap. assembly and take it apart to replace the $30 core.
There is a lot of foam insulation in there that probably absorbed
if you don't want unhealthy fumes to plague you, you'll have a lot of time at
the car wash ahead of you to clean it up.
The Hollander manual says this is a 14 hour job. I'd say that is overly
Rod Lilak | MooseWare Personal Computer Solutions
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