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> Stock output is
> rated at 65 amps.The early alternators differ internally from the late
> model units, although both are rated the same from Ford.The late model
> units also seem to have a much higher failure rate than the earlier
> units.They seem to always fail on me under racing conditions.Most of the
> replacement units you buy over the counter seem to only be the 55 amp
> from the local auto parts stores, because they are not truely the correct
> units for the S.V.O.'s, even though that is how most aftermarket parts
> books list them.I hope this information helps.If you have changed
> alternators check for the correct output from the alternator
I should've known there'd be a difference between years. I'll do whatever
I can to get you the correct alt for a later model car. Mine's an 84. I
put on the new unit this weekend and it's working fine. I'm gonna get the
old one dissected. I'm betting it's a bad diode.
> Do not go by what is on the case if it is a rebuild or
> remanufactured unit.
In regards to this statement; I don't know if you are referring to some
casing stamping, or what, but these units have a sticker on them that show
what their actual output was after the rebuild. They are tested at 14 V
output and the current supplied is written on the sticker. My unit put out
76 AMPS at 14 Volts during the final bench testing. I would be more
interested in what the alternator ACTUALLY put out than what it's suppoed
to put out. This sticker tells you what the one *in your hand* can do.
This place also has a softcover booklet written for the marine market that
describes alts, batts, and other electrical stuff. Some marine info, but
it's still got good bare bones info. Written by mechanics, for mechanics,
it says. I know quite a bit about this stuff and it was still an
interesting book. Recommended if you have trouble figuring out if your alt
is bad or your battery. I'll supply em for $13.50 delivered. I don't make
a dime on this, just trying to help you guys out.