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[1 Svo] Regarding mixing your own rocket fuel...



DISCLAIMER: 
I remember at an early age, as far as my automotive service experience
goes, reading an American car manual (all the same - Ford, Chevy,
Plymouth, etc.) and recall covering the section titled "Remove the
Engine".  It started with Disconnect the battery, drain the coolant,
remove the hoses, remove the radiator, disconnect the .... and so on for
147 steps (read your current Mustang/whatever manual for an example).

And the "Install the Engine" heading had something like "Reverse the
removal process with the following exceptions:" (like use new clamps,
gaskets, coolant, oil, etc.) for another 120 or so steps. Fine. Nice
detail so nobody would forget anything and an assortment of drawings or
photos.

Later in my career I grew up to manage a Ferrari dealership service
center and remember reading a factory service manual for the 365GTC/4
(front engine 12-cylinder with 6 DCOE Webers, dual distributors (USA
models) mid 5-spd gearbox with synchro'd reverse, and sorta 4 seats -
still my favorite Ferrari next to the F40) and the listing under the
heading of "Remove Engine" was "Remove Engine". No details, no steps, no
drawings, etc. Same thing in the 308GTsi manuals.

So keep in mind that I'm providing this information for those that have
the skills, talent, expertise, equipment, funding, etc. to remove the
engine and this should be just reading material for all the rest.

=====================================================
Scott Shidel... wrote:
> What should the ratio be?

For Toluene or Xylene, start about 10% in petrol. NEVER go past 30%. So
consider 20% a max - if it didn't help at 20%, then that's not the
problem (octane limited).

These high-energy fuels will increase the RON significantly but do next
to nothing for the MON values so you'll need to add something to
increase the MON also. For a typical "test brew" I start with 10 gallons
of the highest-priced racing unleaded fuel you can get (reputed to be
105 octane pump and generally about $4.00/gal) and add 1-2 gallons of
Toluene and a full bottle of 104+ black stuff. The Moroso II additive
actually increases MON more than the 104+ but it's harder to find. Don't
waste your money on the 104+ red bottle - insignificant inprovement in
MON. 

If the engine pings with rocket fuel, then you're way out of the
ballpark as far as temperatures, pressures, timing, oil in the
cylinders, and all the other stuff that degrades octane values.

100% Toluene has a RON value of about 122 but you can't burn it in 100%
quantities - and the exhaust scent will put your lights out quickly. It
is a single-hydrocarbon chain compound and it starting and ending point
are the same (quite different than gasoline). Again, do your homework
before you play with this stuff. Xylene is very similar, but has
slightly different characteristics.

DO _NOT_ use this if you have ANY rubber parts in the fuel system,
intake manifold system, etc. cause you won't have those pieces when
you;re done. Neoprene, teflon, nylon, and other synthetic fuel and vac
lines are OK. All of the original Ford hoses will survive but watch out
for replacement things like vacuum lines (especially the one that goes
to the fuel pressure regulator!). Toluene is an excellent (albiet
expensive) solvent and will clean whatever junk you had in the fuel
system - which means it will travel downstream into the injectors and
the engine.

No CAT or oxygen sensor damage will occur.

If you don't have a respirator and acid gloves, don't start here.

-Mike Fleming
Technical Director
SVO Owners Association
Tucson, AZ