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SVO: RE: Troubles

>From: 	Joseph Schesso[SMTP:product@pacifier.com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, November 05, 1997 8:20 PM
>To: 	Multiple recipients of list SVO
>Subject: 	SVO:  Troubles
>I've been having a problem lately with my 2.3l Turbo.  I've had it
>since September '96, so a little over a year.  I've replaced everything
>as they've gone bad, TPS, ISC, Knock Sensor, TFI, and EGR.  One part
>that keeps going bad on me is the VAM, I've gone through 4 and the 5th
>one just went bad after sitting a week.  I'm getting 5.0v's going into
>the Meter, and about 1v coming out.  How do they go bad? I don't know.
>Code 26, what I always get and it goes bad at around 2500rpm's, where
>the car totally dives, then power is back to normal at 3000rpm.  Went
>through the last 3 w/ a Multimeter, on and off the car.  There's a point
>where when you're opening the flapper, the needle starts going back
>down, then back up.  I've tested the Wiring from the ECU Harness to the
>VAM Connector.  I've even replaced the ECU at one point.  

I believe this is normal,  you would think the resistance of the meter
would smoothly
increase as you open the door,  for some reason - IT DOESN'T.  Mine does
the very 
same thing when measuring resistance, while moving the vane.  You will
need to 
measure the voltage level on the "signal return line" to the EEC.
Measure across pins 
2 and 4 (I think, going from memory here) with the Key On Engine Off.  I
think you will 
find it is linear and smoothly increases to some where near 5 volts, as
you move the vane. 
With the vane closed you will get about 1v as you already measured and
about 4.7v with 
the vane wide open.

I don't think the VAM is your problem, as I don't see how you could be
toasting em' so
frequently.  I've never had one go bad.

Steve Leiding