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SVO: RE: Troubles
>From: Joseph Schesso[SMTP:email@example.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 1997 8:20 PM
>To: Multiple recipients of list SVO
>Subject: SVO: Troubles
>I've been having a problem lately with my 2.3l Turbo. I've had it
>since September '96, so a little over a year. I've replaced everything
>as they've gone bad, TPS, ISC, Knock Sensor, TFI, and EGR. One part
>that keeps going bad on me is the VAM, I've gone through 4 and the 5th
>one just went bad after sitting a week. I'm getting 5.0v's going into
>the Meter, and about 1v coming out. How do they go bad? I don't know.
>Code 26, what I always get and it goes bad at around 2500rpm's, where
>the car totally dives, then power is back to normal at 3000rpm. Went
>through the last 3 w/ a Multimeter, on and off the car. There's a point
>where when you're opening the flapper, the needle starts going back
>down, then back up. I've tested the Wiring from the ECU Harness to the
>VAM Connector. I've even replaced the ECU at one point.
I believe this is normal, you would think the resistance of the meter
increase as you open the door, for some reason - IT DOESN'T. Mine does
same thing when measuring resistance, while moving the vane. You will
measure the voltage level on the "signal return line" to the EEC.
Measure across pins
2 and 4 (I think, going from memory here) with the Key On Engine Off. I
think you will
find it is linear and smoothly increases to some where near 5 volts, as
you move the vane.
With the vane closed you will get about 1v as you already measured and
about 4.7v with
the vane wide open.
I don't think the VAM is your problem, as I don't see how you could be
toasting em' so
frequently. I've never had one go bad.