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Since we have a few new people with stock SVO's here, I thought I would
dig up "The List". I had this saved in my mail from when I fist got on the
Net. Many of you have probobly already recieved this, but for those who
didn't, here it is. Some of it may be a bit outdated (such as the FMS cam).
Also, the Aux shaft comment at the end is mainly for limited use cars, not
1) Replace the airfilter with a K+N cone filter, relocated to the inner
fender (remove the airbox and use dryer hose to relocate it). Or, just use
a K+N replacement fiter and cut the lid so only the oval needed to hold the
filter down remains (filter should be exposed when done).
2) If your car does not have dual exhaust, put it on! Use 5.0 tailpipes,
DynoMax or Flowmaster 2 1/4in 5.0 mufflers. All 5.0 hangers and brackets
will work and the holes are pre-tapped on your car. "Mustangs Unlimited"
sells a hanger kit that includes all brackets and hangers to mount the
duals, and it only $35 (the rest of their exhaust prices aren't thet good
though). Use an '86- split pipe (reverse y pipe) to attach the mufflers.
This Y-pipe will bolt directly to your cat conv, if you keep it.
3) YANK THE CAT! Replace your downpipe with a 3" downpipe (and hi-flow
converter if you want to stay with the emissions thing). Some companies
make them, or have one custom made. The downpipe and duals make a HUGE
difference on these cars.
4) Crank the boost up! The downpipe and duals will already put your
boost up to about 10 psi (since the turbo can spin easier). If your engine
is still in good shape, (no blow-by and under 100,000k) you can go as high
as 15 psi. Get a boost gauge, disconnect your overboost buzzer (it will
drive you nuts if you don't), and install an adjustable boost control. If
your car is an '86, it already has 15 psi, but you should still intall the
adjuster and gauge. The factory boost adjuster and boost gauge are about as
accurate as government budget predictions!
5) Exhaust manifold! Unless you have an 87-88 T-Bird, your exhaust
manifold is restrictive and most likely cracked. A header is available, but
it's $600+. As a lower cost alternative, get an 87-88 T-Bird manifold. It
bolts on with no modifications and all mounting holes are in the same place
(i.e. it lines right up). A bonus, would be having it ported and polished,
or even better, "Extrude Honed".
6) Gears! If you don't have an 8.8 rear, (only '87-88 T-Coupes did) now
is the time to put one in. Your axleshafts and brakes have to be installed
in the new rear. Put in 4.10 or 4.30 gears. If you do alot of highway
driving, just do the 4.10's. If you just want acceleration, go to the
4.30's. It doesn't sound like that big of a difference, but with the low
torque of the 4-cyl, it does make a difference. If the car is mainly for
highway, you can do with 3.73's to save some gas.
7) Tires! With the last few mods, you'll notice your back tires are
getting pretty thin. You'll also notice alot of rubber chunks on the rear
quarters. Get some Z-rated tires (245-50-ZR16's should fit if your using
stock SVO rims). These will give you better traction and handling. Get
some for the front while your at it so you can do some corner carving.
8) Clutch! By now your clutch might be going (if it wasn't gone
already). Use the Motorsport clutch for the SVO or get a Centerforce
assembly. Both are cheapest through Summit Racing. Since the tranny is
down, you should also put in a short throw shifter such as a B&M or Pro 5.0.
9) Underdrive pulleys! Self explanatory. Only worth a few HP but they
let the engine rev more freely to let out the HP you have.
10) Degree the cam. Use an adjustable cam gear and a degreeing kit to
tune your camshaft. The gear is available from Racer Walsh or Esslinger.
This can be done to a stock or aftermarket cam. RW or Esslinger can tell
you the best adjustment specs.
11) Camshaft! Install a motorsport roller cam. This is a little more
involved but worth it.
12) Intercooler. Swap on an `87-88 T-coupe intercooler. It flows
better and gives a bit more power. It may take some "finageling" to get it
on, but it does fit.
Okay, that's about all you want to do to a stock motor. This should
put you in the 250-275 HP range (depending on the condition of the motor)
and about a 13.7-14.5 ET in the 1/4 (depending on how hard you drive and
shift it, and if your still spinning the tires). Some have even gotten 13.5
with this combo (with a solid motor, excellent traction, and beating the car
like a red-headed stepchild.
If this isn't enough for you let me know. There's alot more you can
do,but it get's pretty involved. I can get that car doing 12's. However,
there is one more thing you might want to (you should) do. If you do the
cam, actually, even if you don't, you should replace the auxillary shaft
with a billet shaft from Esslinger Turbo Scene (the guru of 2.3 Turbos). It
is easy to do while you are doing the cam (since the front dress is already
off the motor) but is a good idea regardless. The stock auxillary shaft is
the weakest part of the motor. And it has a tendency to go at the worst
time. All the ones I know of either broke in the middle of a race or on the
highway in the middle of Lower Bumblefuck USA. (I'm sure you've had a flat
tire there before, right?) It's kind of expensive, (a little over $200) but
it's cheaper than what happens if yours breaks.
By the way, if you've ever heard of Esslinger Turbo Scene, they have
most of the parts you would ever need. However, they are now called
Essential Turbo Sustems. Their new number is (310) 464-0082. Give them a
call and get a catalog. Racer Walsh also has 4-cyl parts and can be reached
at (904)743-8253. Let me know if you need anything else or just want to
shoot to shit on turbo's. Good luck!