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SVO: RE: fuel pumps

OK all, here's a chunk of text detailing what I did to eliminate the 2
pump setup on my `84. This is just one option, keep in mind, this was
intended to reroute the lines out of the way and is actually more than
you need to do just to eliminate the inline pump. 


OK, a few people are asking about the duel exhaust swap, so here it goes
Disclaimer...If you're spinning the bottle as to which way to go, single
3" or
Duels, well, I think it's cheaper to get the 3". By the time you get all
toys for the duel swap, it'll cost you just as much. More iffin you
count time
spent in the yard!

First....get the needed parts before you start.
1.  Fuel. Get (or fab new) the metal fuel lines off of a late `80s /
early `90s
V8 car. The `84 SVOs had all nylon fuel line from tank to intake. The V8
rerouted the fuel lines from the side rail to the center of the car. I
cut the
metal lines under the side door of the car. I was hoping to flair the
end of
the metal lines and push the nylon on, (the shop manual shows kits for
plastic to plastic but not metal to plastic. It also says heat the lines
boiling water to soften). Well, I took some scrap line and tried this in
kitchen (my wife wasn't real happy about this) No luck! I bought a few
feet of
high pressure rubber fuel line ($$) and special clamps to do the job of
the nylon to metal. If anyone knows a better way, please pass it on!!!
hoping they don't leak under high pressure (NOTE: after 2 months, no
The nylon and metal lines are within a millimeter of each other in the
Next, get the fuel filter bracket and nylon lines (from the assembly to
the tank)
off of any late `Stang (I used a `92 V6 car), they should all be the
Mount this in the same location as the donor car.
Get a singe high pressure in-tank fuel pump (Jim @ PPI) I suggest
the 155lph unless motor is highly modified. The factory used 2 pumps in
`84. A
low pressure in the tank and a high 100lph in the line (right where the
muffy goes). Personally, I think a 190lph maybe to powerful and cause
leaks in
the rubber hose section of my setup. Wire up the pump from the factory
harness's hot lead to a good ground. Don't use the neg terminal on the
connector! There is a resistor in the negative side line (as per shop
to keep the voltage lower to the in-tank pump than the in-line pump.
The resister, it turns out, is a bright silver steel looking wire that's
in the harness 
(under the rugs in the trunk). Unwrap the tape from around the wires
between the 
rubber plug (where it passes through the body) and the hatch release
Cut the crimp between the copper wire and the silver wire. Crimp a new
piece of 
copper to the copper wire coming from the tank and ground to the frame
by the hatch release mechanism. I also grounded 
the silver wire for fun. This way you can disconnect the tank electicial
as needed in the future.

The sending unit in the tank is different from
`84 to `86. The after-market pumps will drop right in the `86 but not
the `84.
Get the sending unit assy off of an `86 or newer tank. Mine is off of a
`92 2.3 w/ FI.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	RacerX269 [SMTP:RacerX269@aol.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, December 06, 1997 12:33 AM
> To:	Multiple recipients of list SVO
> Subject:	SVO:  fuel pumps
> why did ford put two fuel pumps on the 84 svo and how can i delete the
> frame
> mounted one. mine is leaking and the ford dealer wants 250.00 for a
> new one.
> does anyone know what the in tank poump is rated at and what the frame
> mounted
> one is rated at? any help would be appreiciated....
> thanks 
> matt mcdougall
> 84 svo (still trying to become a road race terror)
> know if i could just get that fuel to stop leaking i might be able to
> pass
> tech:-))