Chris Roth wrote: > > At 11:13 PM 12/20/97 -0700, Carl Morris wrote: > > >So how's the FAQ coming...anyone? ;-) > > Is there a FAQ in the works?? If not I now have the web space and time to > get this started. Start sending me input and info!! I've already discussed it with Dave (repeatedly) and supposedly he's getting something together that will be on his web page...or something ;-). I'll send you the same stuff I sent him, and you can put it up too, just in case he never gets around to it. There's lots-o-stuff that should be on it, I was just trying to get it started. Anyway...there are three files attached, and you've probably seen them all before. Edit/mangle them as you see fit ;-). I just want the information out there so we can point to it when someone asks the same question we've heard a million times. So do you know yet if you're going to be in the area for a while? -- Carl_Morris@StorTek.Com
One way to get 400+ horsepower from a 2.3L Turbo Ford: Intake - K&N air filter Mounted directly to air meter Vane Air Meter Stock SVO 3" (E4ZZ-12B529-A) Throttle Body Stock Intake Manifold 86 style, ported lower half, gutted upper half Head - Cast Iron Port matched to intake, big valves, good valve job Esslinger hardware Cam - Engle 55 Installed with stock pulley Exhaust - Manifold Ported stock ("E6SE" casting) Pipe 3" to rear of car + Borla muffler Block - Cast Iron Head and Main bearing studs O-ringed Pistons - Stock Ford Modified for floating pins 0.0045" skirt clearance Back-cut upper ringland Rings - Stock Ford Total Seal second ring Bearings- Ford 0.002" rod/main Rods - Crower Sportsman Stock length Misc. - Nitrous 90hp dry-manifold type for 5.0 Adds fuel by closing stock return line to increase pressure. - Fuel System Stock 86 SVO computer ("PE") plus chip to raise rev limiter to 7K Stock 35lb/hr injectors Two full-size Ford truck pumps (E7TF-AA) in series, with 3/8" factory plastic lines and an F1SZ-9155-A filter. Stock pulse damper retained. Ported Ranger fuel rail. - Turbo "S" trim T04 compresser with a dynamic seal, and an 0.82 A/R bolt on Turbonetics exhaust housing. Intake side is a T4, exhaust side is a T3 with stock turbine wheel. - Intercooler Aftermarket Garret designed for a Toyota truck, with modified tanks and 2" inlet and outlet. - Boost Control Simple "fish-tank" style bleeder valve, courtesy of Superchips. Set to 16-17 psi. - Ignition Stock TFI with an MSD 6. Motorcraft wires and stock 10 degree timing. AWSF32C spark plugs gapped at 0.030" - Head Gasket Felpro One way to run 10's with 400+hp 2.3L Turbo Ford: 1. Buy a Pinto (2500lb w/mild steel rollbar and subframe connectors, without driver), and put this motor in it ;-) 2. C4 automatic transmission, stock ("F29") torque convertor. 3. 4.62:1 gears and a locking differential in a stock 8" Pinto rear end. 4. Use the N2O system right off the line to eliminate lag. 5. Use very sticky tires for consistent low 1.5xx 60' times. 6. SPA-1 Koni shocks, and home-built leaf springs with Global West bushings.Title: Turning Up the Boost
Turning Up the Boost
OK, here's how it works. When you have your fuel switch set for regular fuel, your boost should only go to about 9 psi. That is the pressure your wastegate is designed to open at. If you simply ran a single hose from the high pressure side ("outlet") of the turbo down to the wastegate actuator diaphragm, this is the maximum boost level that you would always have. If you look at the hose(s) on your turbo, though, you will notice that there is a "T-connection" at the outlet of the turbo, and there is a second hose leading to a solenoid on the fenderwell, and another hose going from the solenoid back into the intake air before the turbo. When your fuel switch is set to premium, and the computer is happy with the conditions such as the temperature of the motor, this solenoid opens. The passages inside the "T-connection" are sized so that an exact amount of pressure drop occurs in the line leading down to the wastegate actuator when there is flow to the solenoid. This means that the boost goes higher than the wastegate actuator "sees". As long as your boost is greater when you have the switch set to premium than regular, this part of the system is working properly.
What you want is to allow the solenoid to bleed off even more pressure. The easiest way to do this is to drill out the passage in the "T-connection" that goes to the solenoid slightly larger. You want to do this one drill bit size at a time until you get a little more boost than you want. A little goes a long way! Then you buy a little plumbing valve with hose connections, and install it in the hose to the solenoid so that you can restrict the flow manually to get exactly the boost you want. Also, if you want to keep the computer from turning your boost down at all times, just bypass the solenoid.
***Note***: This was written for the early version of the motor. The later version (85.5+) uses a slightly different system. In this case, the "T-connection" is already sized for maximum boost and does not need drilled out. Boost is instead controlled by rapid opening and closing of the solenoid, with the duty cycle (proportion of time closed to time open) doing the controlling. Bypassing the solenoid, and using a valve to restrict the flow through the bypass hose will have the desired results, no drilling required.
Another note: everything I've told you is the bogus cheap way of doing things. The good way is to spend $500+ on an electronic boost controller that will do all this better, and is cockpit controlled. But, if you're like me...
General 2.3T mod list, presented in an approximate order that most people would generally do them in. The boost can be turned up at any time, but results will vary based on modification level. Top quality fuel should be used at all times, and detonation religiously monitored for. Taking care not to hurt your motor can be made much easier by the purchase of an air/fuel ratio monitor (about $70). This is highly recommended when you get to the point of changing the cam, or turning up the boost. Stage 0: Get the car running right! Put decent tires on it! Take it to the strip and get some baseline numbers for it! At sea level, an 85.5+ should run a low 15/high 14, and an early model should run a low-mid 15. These times assume decent traction and driving. Stage 1: Disconnect the knock sensor FREE At first glance, this would seem nuts, based on the paragraph above. BUT, the knock sensor is easily fooled by non-detonation noises into pulling out timing when it shouldn't, and it takes out way too much. People generally run faster when they disconnect it...you gotta use your brain to avoid detonation and broken parts. K&N Air filter/no air box $30-$50 Turn up boost till the overboost buzzer just comes on, this is about 17.5 psi OR set it wherever you want (see fuel meter again) ;-). $5-$500 The best number I've heard of so far for an SVO at this stage was an 86 that ran a 13.75 on slicks. This was posted by a list member a while back. Stage 2: Big exhaust $200-$1000 Engle cam $150 Tbird Intercooler (optional, save your money for a serious one if you're going to go farther than stage 2) $50 Late model computer and injectors for early model owners $200? When this becomes a requirement will depend on a lot of things, but generally, if you're running 95mph or more in the quarter mile in a stock weight SVO (~230hp), it's time. For some people this may happen before the cam change. You need to be sure that the computer you buy was from an intercooled car (late SVO, or late Tbird TurboCoupe). The computer mapping was different for inter-cooled versus non-intercooled applications. Late model SVOers may also want to consider going to a higher flow fuel pump at about this point. The early model double- pump system should be OK for most applications. If you're going to use nitrous at some point, go all out on the fuel pump(s). At this point, you should have gained at least 5 or 6 mph, and half a second off your baseline time. Typical gains would be closer to a full second, if for no other reason than that you should be getting to be a pretty good driver by now ;-). Stage 3: Good intercooler $250-$1250 High flow turbo $600-$800 Ported Manifolds FREE-$1000 Stage 4: All out Ported head/big valves/maybe bigger cam FREE-$2000 Stage 5: Parts exist to do an all-aluminum 3 liter 8000RPM stroker motor if you want to go nuts. This will require more fuel than the 86 system can provide. Currently you're on your own for such things... BIG BUCKS! Other things like underdrive pulleys ($50) and cam timing pulleys ($50-$100) can be played with as desired. Prices vary depending on the deals you find, and how much of the work you can/will do yourself. There's always nitrous for those who are inclined to deal with it, and to take the necessary precautions. Results will vary, but 13s in the mid 90s can be run on the 30# injectors, and 12s at a few mph over 100 can be run on the 36s, both without nitrous. With nitrous and some creativity, a lot more is possible.